Do We Really Need Underwires? The Truth About Non-Wired Bras

If you wear bras, chances are you’ve felt the stab of an underwire at some point. But have you ever stopped to wonder—do we actually need them?

For years, we’ve been told that underwires = support, but if that’s the case, how did women manage before wires took over lingerie drawers?

I recently spent a research day at the London College of Fashion archive, diving into non-wired bras from the 1940s-70s, and what I found might just make you question whether wires are truly necessary—or just a habit we’ve been conditioned into.

So, if you’re wondering why all the wires, or if you don’t even have much to support (ahem, team small bust! 🙋‍♀️), keep reading.

Before Underwires Took Over: How Did Bras Work Without Them?

Believe it or not, underwires weren’t always the default. Before the 1950s and 60s, bras relied on actual construction techniques rather than just shoving in a wire and calling it a day.

When I examined vintage non-wired bras from the Lorraine Smith Collection at LCF, here’s what stood out:

👗 Smart Cutting & Seams: Instead of relying on wires to shape the bust, these bras used clever paneling and stitching to create structure.
💪 Fabric Did the Heavy Lifting: Back then, stretch fabrics weren’t widely used, so support came from firm, woven materials rather than elasticated bands.
🧵 Reinforcement Over Restriction: Many bras featured quilting, extra stitching, or multiple layers of fabric—essentially engineering, but make it fashion.

The result? Structured, supportive, and wire-free bras that actually held their own.

(Of course, there’s no way of testing them out for comfort and feel on the body. We can only suspect that they did their job in supporting the bosoms of all those decades of women—without the dreaded underwire dig!)

Curious Why All the Wires? Do We Really Need Them?

If non-wired bras worked perfectly fine in the past, why did we all end up with metallic skeletons digging into our ribs?

Let’s break it down:

Why Underwires Exist:

They lift & separate (Victoria’s Secret made sure we all wanted that “perfectly round” bust).
They distribute weight, which helps for larger cup sizes.
They create a smooth shape under clothes.

Why You Might Not Need Them:

You’re team small bust and don’t need heavy-duty support.
You prefer comfort and movement over a fixed, structured fit.
You like a more natural shape (think vintage soft bras over ultra-push-ups).

Moral of the story? Underwires aren’t a must—they’re just one option.

So, What’s the Future of Non-Wired Lingerie?

After digging through decades of wire-free lingerie history, one thing is clear: we can (and should) rethink how bras are made.

The archive has inspired me to explore non-wired designs that are structured, yet effortless, bringing back some of these smart vintage techniques—with modern materials. Watch the space for new creations! 

For now explore our current wire free designs available to buy and made to order.

 

So tell me—are you team wire or team wire-free? Would you swap out your underwire if the support was just as good?

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📌 Written by Arena Page—Founder, designer, vintage lingerie enthusiast, and forever questioning why we let underwires take over the world.